Thursday, 8 May 2014

Now in Portugal - Photos to come later



Typed Wednesday 7 April 2014

 

Last posting was from camping Cubillas prior to Valladolid.  We are now at Castelo de Vide in Portugal.  Only 20 kms from the Spanish border, but a couple of hundred kms south of where we initially crossed into Portugal.  We are not crossing back yet, as we plan on going further south in Portugal before we go back to Spain.

 

Since leaving Camping Cubillas we accidentally passed Valladolid. We had set the GPS for downtown Valladolid and we were going there.  We had need of a hardware to replace a blown light bulb (special sort) and spotted a sign for the Bricomarché (hardware chain in Europe) and followed roadside signage for a very long involved way on the way into Valladolid.  We successfully found it and a supermarket next door - both of which we were looking for, but they were closed - Public Holiday.  When we started off again, GPS bypassed the Centro and had us heading for Cuellar, our next port of call. 

 

Knowing we were going there, Mum has studied Valladolid via Google Maps and probably now knows more about it than we do.

 

Off to Cuellar, a sizeable village between Valladolid and Segovia

 

Along the way we drove past a large hilltop walled village.  Decided we don’t want to go to hilltop city in our van - seen enough from the road so didn’t get tempted to detour.  Crops in these flat areas are canola, wheat and solar panels and wind farms in mountains.  Trees are conifers of some sort pom-pom pines - very European rather than Spanish and thickly wooded. However there are huge plantations of several varieties of Eucalyptus - why don’t we do that and grow our own hardwood?  Are travelling on the Autovia de Pinares in Castille e Leon.
Castelo of Cuellar

Wendy in the Tzigy - a doorless 2 seater car

 

Cuellar has a huge castle in very good state of repair undergoing renovation.  It was the venue for the festival of 1 May - Labor Day.  Drank wine and tapas.  The festival was a cross between a food festival and a home show pushing productos de artesanos - we spent a small fortune on sheep milk cheese and a couple of varieties of prosciuttos.  Kenny is worried about how he is going to cut the block of prosciutto, ‘cos it requires a VERY sharp knife.  Turns out we have to eat large slices of it, which is nowhere near as nice as having whisker-thin wafers of it.

 

We haven’t seen many animals in the fields for quite some time even up north (lots of sheep in the north). Huge barns attached to farms - a football field per time.  Often the farms have two or three of these barns obviously housing cattle and pigs.  We passed one with a humungous pile of cow poo outside - obviously waiting for the poo truck to come and collect it and cast it upon the fields - which is why we have to wash all our fruit and veg before we use it.  They also have enormous stores of hay either under cover or out in the open.  This would be for winter feed and for bedding straw for the barned animals.  I wonder how much of the crops that we can see in the fields is for cattle/pig feed and how much is for human consumption.

 

Passing through stands of planted conifers of some sort which have cups on the trunks and they appear to be bleeding them for the resin.  Not sure, but that is what it seems like. Feels to me like they are being bled - like those bears in China and places like that which are milked of their bile - seems cruel.  We have also seen many cork trees which are harvested by stripping off sections of their bark (which is the cork), and it looks like they are only half dressed.

 

Spent the night at Zamarramala - a small village overlooking the walled city of Segovia.  We actually started driving down the road to Segovia and chickened out, because it got steeper and steeper, and it looked as if when one reached the bottom, there was nowhere to go but straight up. 
Road back up to Zarramamala
So we went back to Zamarramala and parked in a new housing development looking out over the beauty that is Segovia and caught the local bus into the city next morning.  We were very pleased we chose that option, although the way the bus driver threw the bus around all the hairpin bends and narrow little streets, we still had frayed nerves.  We followed a military parade through the length of town to the Alcazar.  It turned out to be the annual memorial for the regiment based in the city.  Lots of drums and a flat bugle which matched the discordant church bells.  We explored the Alcazar (an ancient fortress) - it was really interesting as most places of that age are, and contained suits of armour for knights and their horses.  We went up to the battlements - where it was freezing although it was a lovely day. 
The Alcazar of Segovia

Altar piece of the Cathedral
We decided that it is the last tower we are going up - all those narrow spiral staircases give me vertigo.  The Cathedral of Segovia is absolutely beautiful and appears to have an onion dome - it is not quite, but fabulous anyway.  I paid to go in while Kenny waited outside - he is over Cathedrals. 
Cathedral of Segovia
It was beautiful, but despite its enormous size I was disappointed to see that it wouldn’t seat more than 150 people as it was all sectioned off into little chapels and a heavily carved choir area.  Seven churches could be counted in Segovia from our eyrie in Zamarramala and there were also several convents to be spotted as we strolled through the city.  The highlight of the city, however, was the 2000 year old aqueduct built by the Romans - the biggest surviving in Europe, and in superb condition.

 

Then headed for Salamanca via Avila.  countryside  now country hilly and rugged and  rocky, but on top of the ground there are big boulders  Road cuttings through rock.  Very rough landscape.  Still quite cultivated in patches, but mostly just rock and scrub.  Barns have disappeared.

 

Weren’t planning to stop a Avila, but as we came past Kenny looked over his should and was amazed to see the biggest fortified city we have ever seen.  Made Carcassonne loo small.  Too late, we couldn’t get off the freeway.  Oh well, you can’t see everything!  Seen one walled city you have seen them all.  We were a bit disappointed, but that’s a couple less towers to climb - our knees are grateful.  And I am sure we will see lots more.

 

Along this stretch of our trip we found the plain in Spain where is always rains.  It is lovely, but wheat fields to the left and right - ergo rain Spain grain.  Cereal is a major export from Spain and now we know where they grow it.

 

Went to Ciudad Rodrigo had a looked around the old town then across border into Mid eastern Portugal.  First city was Garda where we did a quick Griggs tour ‘cos it was on a hill and didn’t look very appealing. Then went fair way off the main road to spend 3 nights at Berenquera aire de stationment.  This was a tiny little village in the hills that has gone to the trouble of putting a weir across their river to create a swimming pool and they have put in a shop/restaurant (not open, ‘cos the season is a ways off yet) and ablution blocks for campers and it was tranquil and just what the doctor ordered.  Getting there was an experience, but nowhere as bad as my imagination was picturing it to be.  I spent time downloading photos from the camera, and then we put our chairs out I the sun and read our books and got a bit of a suntan. 

 

The weather is getting to be wonderful and we are loving that.           

 

It is now 22.45pm and Kenny is in need of his bed - me too.  So will finish up here, and catch up when I have wi-fi again.

 

We have taken to recording our thoughts on the tablet as we drive along, so that I remember to share them with you - aren’t you glad???

 

Notes from the Tablet (in no particular order):

·         Note re shopping hours.  All stores closed because it is a  National holiday - compare to ours where Coles and Woolies only close on Christmas Day Good Friday and half day on Anzac Day.  We were fed a load of rubbish about needing 24 hour shopping.

·         Interesting vapour trails. Lots of planes flying overhead in Europe, and sky resembles a WWII dogfight with all the criss-crossing vapour trails.  All trails lead to Madrid apparently.

·         Since we got down to Palencia the landscape is different.  In the mountains it is solid rock with 6in topsoil.  Then highly cultivated wherever a tractor can get to.  In flatter areas soil is grey and dull  lifeless.  Very flat for large areas.  Red soil not very rich looking.  Main wine growing areas have red soil with pebbly rocks.  Lots of olives and wineries - didn’t stop at any.  Grapes different to at home - obviously different varieties (main one around here seems to be Tamperanillo).  More like those vines we saw in France - short, knobbly and close to the ground.  No trellises.  Just coming into leaf but have baby grapes.  Leaves cover grapes to keep them cool - moisture held in rocky soil.

·         We note that there are a lot of stones in the fields - they haven’t done dry stone walls to divide fields - Kenny says not that many rocks of useable size.  I cannot work out how they know where one farm ends and the next one starts.  There are not even hedgerows as property boundaries.  Just open cultivated pastures for miles.

·         We like Spain, people, food, wine and cheeses, all good.  No building inspectors we reckon.  Lots of great old buildings, but there are some interesting adobe cottages made of mud and spit with apparently only a basic concept of building theory.  Here are some amazing renovations going on though to ancient buildings.

·         Roads are great, and deserve the 120k/hr speed limit.  We cannot do anything like that and get  quite excited when we get up to 100kms which is not very often - going downhill.

·         Roadside stops provided.  In England they are basic, but here there are proper pull-ins with nice facilities.

·         Taps in the showers in the camping parks are many and vary - need a licence to drive a lot of them.  Keep meaning to take photos to show you the variety and complexity, but get to the showers and realise I haven’t got a camera handy.

·         Camping parks are a lot cheaper here than in England, and usually the showers and the wi-fi are included in the price, which is not the case in the UK.

·         Trains all look like bullet trains

 

Keep well till next time.

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